A nation divided

While post WWII Germany displayed a very tangible country division, Austria has also long been a nation divided. At some point in time, Austria's Hapsburg family have been rulers of mosy parts of Western Europe, so it always comes as shock when they lose ground; either through wars (Prussian), invasions (Napoleon), uprisings (Hungary's insistence on equality, creating the Austro-Hunagrian Empire, rather than the Austrian Empire) or diplomatic decision (Austria's most dramatic division following WWI, in which the empire was carved into independant countries and Austria became the tiny country we know today).

Austria was declared by Stalin the first 'victim' of Germany's atrocities, and thus for many years felt itself clear of any blame for war crimes, but in the 80s questions began to surface about how deeply involved Austria was in anti-semitic behaviour. Their actions in the past cast further doubt onto Austria's claims of innocence. Austria has had a Jewish population for a thousand years, and never really had an enforced ghetto as some European cities did (such as Venice, the original ghetto). But in the 14th century the Emporer herded most of the Jewish community into boats on the Danube, without oars, and let them float downstream.They landed in Hungary, beginning the large Hungarian Jewish population. The remaining Jews in Vienna, for fear of forced conversion, committed a mass suicide in the synagogue, which was burned down. When Jews were allowed to live in Vienna again (along with Protestants, and non Roman Catholic- Christians), they had to live by strict rules, including not presenting any aspect of their religion to the street.

When Hitler invaded Vienna, a referendum heralded a 98.5% vote in favour of him. However, if you see pictures of the referendum, it's quite clear that there was little choice but to vote yes. A picture of Hitler looks down on voters, and burly guards stand on either side, watching your vote. The yes box is huge, while the no box is tiny, and the 'how to vote' example is clearly marked yes. Apparently anyone who voted no was marched off in chains. However, recent investigation has found that probably 50% of the Austrian public genuinely supported being annexed to Germany; Austria having been such a dominant empire for so long, they simply didn't believe in it's ability to thrive as a tiny state.

Interestingly, one of the post WWII conditions was that Austria could not enter into any organisation of which Germany was a part. This means that, although Austria has been a demontsrably neutral country for fifty years, and is a successful member of the European community, they could not join the European Union until the Soviet Union collapsed, as this heralded the dissolution of the conditions.

Vienna is often described as a classical or old fashioned city; the Hapsburgs' support of the arts meant that creative types, especially musicians, flocked to Vienna (you may have heard of a few... Mozart, Strauss, Brahms). Yet despite the touts strolling the streets in get up of Mozart's times, Vienna is often devastatingly modern. 30% of Vienna was hit by bombing in WWII and had to be rebuilt. Otto Wagner and Hunderwasser erected buildings of controversially striking style, and Gustav Klimt redefined modern art standards, shocking people with his idealied female nudes.

I've seen modern art museums, and Mozart concerts in the Golden Hall (where the Vienna New Year's concert is performed each year). I've drunk far more coffee than is good for me, and I've listened to the most amazing choir perform in a church. And I'm loving it all :)