Munich's hidden past

When you think of Munich, you probably think of beer, and Oktoberfest. Or maybe, if you're a little more historically or geographically minded, you might think of Bavaria, and Munich being the seat of Bavarian rule. You probably don't immediately think of Hitler, or of the birth of the Nazi party. And that's exactly how Munich likes it.

Some cities chose to rebuild their cities in new styles after WWII bombing. Not Munich; it rebuilt everything exactly the same, to the point that it didn't even put up any new war memorials. That might remind people that Munich was somehow involved in the war; Munich prefers to evoke a happy, beer inspired time past.

Munich is definitely first and foremost about beer. There are numerous beer tours, ridiculous numbers of beer shops and the famous Hofbrauhaus (court brewery). Once upon a time, the Hofbrauhaus was a men only establishment, with a bottom level smelling of urine, as getting up to use the facilites might mean losing your seat or, even worse, your beer. These days the Hof is a noisy establishment, packed to the rafters with tourists and locals alike enjoying the oompah-pah music, the pretzels and of course, the beer in LITRE mahs jugs. Yup, you have to drink it by the litre. Sobriety is not an option.

In fact, it was on the top floor of the Hofbrauhaus that Hitler first began trying to sway Munich citizens to join the Munich political party of which he had become leader, the Nationals (or Nazis). It was in Munich that Hitler first attempted to overthrow a government, resulting in the deaths of 16 and the imprisonment of Hitler for eleven months; on FIVE charges, each of which carried a death sentence, he got a measly 5 months. Imagine how history could have been different if the judge had not been a Nazi sympathiser. It was in Munich that he perfected his 'charismatic' puplic speaking, filling the first five rows of any public presentation with planted Nazis, to create a mob mentality conducive to his cause.

Munich is a city that is steeped in proud history, but finds it hard to resign itself to its recent past. Except for tour companies, there isn't even mention of nearby Dachau, the concentration camp bearing the famous gate slogan, 'Arbeit Mach Frei' (Work will make you free). However, information for Neuschwanstein Castle, on which Disney's Sleeping Beauty Castle is modelled, is all over. You can actually buy liederhosen in modern department stores. It's a lovely, friendly, interesting place... you just have to dig a little deep to scratch the most recent surface of Munich's history.