"Welcome to Oporto!" This was called out to us on the street as we carried our backpacks to our hostel (well, actually, first we carried them AWAY from the hostel... but we got there in the end). You really notice how friendly people are in Portugal. Lisa especially notices it... today someone lifted her backpack (still on her back) while she climbed the stairs at the metro station! She's also had people lead her towards ticket machines that work better, and we've had stacks of directions offered up... all in Portuguese! One of my favourite stories happened to a Canadian girl at our hostel; she went to the market, and a vege stall holder started patting the girl's stomach and announcing in Portuguese that she was too skinny, and needed to stay in Portugal and eat more, then mimed the big stomach she ought to have!
Maybe it's just my fondness for Lisbon, but despite the lovely people, I didn't like Oporto (Porto) quite as much. It has a very different feel to Lisbon; wider streets and more modernised shopping districts, yet many houses look quite run down and tiling needs replacing. It's also a lot smaller, and built entirely around the trade of port wine, which actually also explains things like the wide boulevards; when the owners of wineries decided to build second homes in Porto, the city had to expand and the new districts suited the tastes of the richer residents. It may also reflect the long association with the English- Oporto was the official wine supplier for England back in the 1400s. It is still a very pretty city though, hugging one bank of the river Douro and connected to its twin city, Nova Vila de Geia (home to Oporto's port wine 'caves'), on the facing bank by many impressive (and very tall) bridges.
I did, of course, indulge in said port wine. A little too much. Many of the wine caves have free tastings, and cheap tours or tasting upgrades, so it's not too difficult to find you've had nine glasses of port in an afternoon (they were only little glasses, but port is STRONG! Phew). My favourite place was Croft, although I think this was because I bought some chocolate to be matched with my port... really good chocolate. Calem Port was also quite nice. I liked the port, but it's very sweet. My preference is for the other local drink, vinho verde (green wine), which is a young red wine, drunk before the skins have been pressed through the wine. This means the wine hasn't yet taken on the red colour of the skins, and is quite light and bubbly, resembling a white wine rather than a red. You can also get vinho verde tinto, green-red wine, which has had a single pressing of the skins and so has a pale red colour. I'm yet to try that.
Lisa's getting used to my sight-seeing tastes- when we first got the map of Oporto, she pointed out the twenty odd churches in the city. I didn't seek many out specifically, but stumbled across a lot by accident while wandering (and getting lost in) residential districts. In Portugal, and I especially noticed it in Oporto, houses are built up around the churches, so you can easily find a church in a row of houses. Many houses also sport their own shrines to saints, or pictures of them on the outer walls. The other thing that stood out for me in Oporto were the amazing azeluja tiles, tiles hand painted blue on a white back-ground. They have these in Lisbon, but not to the extent of Oporto (Lisbon's main extravagance is the beautiful decorative paved streets; I just HAD to buy a book on them). In Oporto azeluja tiles decorate houses, churches, important buildings, shops, stations; everything. They are also more likely to depict scenes, whereas in Lisbon they may just offer decorative patterns. There are tiled images of the Passion of the Christ; the Crusades; Royal scenes; sea faring scenes; it's just beautiful.
Speaking of tiles, I realised today, as we returned to Lisbon for an overnight stay, just how amazing the metro stations are here. Many of them are tiled beautifully, presenting a modern version of the traditional Portuguese ceramic craft. If I return to Lisbon again, I plan to take a day on the metro just photographing the station walls. Hey, I've already spent a week photographing the sidewalks!
Have come to the conclusion that Nando's-style chicken is a sham. We can't find it anywhere, and apparently the Portuguese use far less peri-peri in their cooking than the Spanish. If I were to open a Nando's in Portugal, I think I'd make a fortune. However, for some reason, I have NEVER had a better Magnum ice cream than that which I ate in Oporto. Ecuadorian dark chocolate, way thicker than on Magnums at home, and the icecream was creamier, like they used to be... Yeah, not exactly regional fare, but SO GOOD. I did also try Oportan specialities like francesinha, a carnivore's delight (sandwich consisting of melted cheese on the outside, then bread, then ham, then two different sorts of sausage, then a thin beef steak, then more ham, then more cheese, then the bottom slice of bread, all drowned in a tomato and beer sauce. I took photos!). I preferred the Queijadinha I had today, which was a cheese and egg yolk pastry which tasted of lemon. Yum.
And yes, my tour of Europe is almost entirely about food. And drink. And churches. What's wrong with that?
Showing posts with label Portugal. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Portugal. Show all posts
Saturday, May 12, 2007
Monday, May 07, 2007
The Golden Age of Discovery
Great news: I have found Jesus. He´s overlooking the Rio Tejo, next to the bridge that resembles the Golden Gate.
A few days ago, I knew very little about Portugal. I knew that Lisa had studied a little of the language, which is a Romance language; I knew that the Spanish and Portuguese had divided te world between them and discovered many places; and I knew Nando´s. Now I know that the spoken Portuguese is tough for many Romance language speakers, and has been described as sounding like 'a drunken Frenchman trying to speak Spanish´; that, while discovering and trading with Africa, India and South America, Portugal took on elements of their cultures, rather than purely stamping Portuguese culture onto the new colonies; and I know that the Nando's symbol is based on a common Portuguese image recalling a tale about a roast chicken which crowed three times to signify a pilgrim's innocence. And I know that there is a big statue of Jesus, a la the Big Jesus in Rio De Janeiro.
Portugal is gorgeous. Due to a dictatorship during the 20th century, it was quite chut off from the outside world, and as such is still quite underdeveloped, but trying very hard to catch up. So it still retains the laidback attitude of an older community, and much of the technology is unreliable. In fact, innefficiency is said to be a defining factor of Portuguese life, the relaxed attitude often extending into tardiness. People here are very friendly and helpful, even if you speak only very hesitant, broken Portuguese. Í've decided to learn Portuguese when I go home.
On our first evening in Lisbon, we wandered around being amazed by the cheap prices of beer. The next day we discovered we'd been in the tourist strip, and that elsewhere it was cheaper! We quickly learned that the best places for price and taste are the little hole in the wall restaurants with no English translation, and preferably a handwritten list of 'Plats de dios', today's specials. The people here generally speak no English, but show enormous concern for you as a customer. And the food! And the prices! Sigh.
We've visited quite a few castles. Lisbon itself grew down the hill from the castle, originally Moorish, and extended along the Rio Tejo (Tajus River). The castle is really nice, it's now just walls and ramparts, no explanatory signs, no lavish interior decor. Just ancient walls and an amazing view.
Yesterday we contrasted this with our visit to Sintra, a small town on the outer suburbs of Lisbon. Nestled by hills/ mountains, Sintra is overlooked by Castelos Mouros and Palacio de Pena, which was the sometime residence of Portugal's 19th century kings, and is pure flight of fantasy. The foundations of the building were a monastery, which the King extended through his own specific design, which embraces Arabic towers, Anglo castellation and Portuguese tiling, creating a true fairy tale castle. It's amazing, and quite surprising. It's the sort of thing which would not be out of place in a theme park, yet somehow fits Portugal. Eccentric expressions of passion are de rigeur here.
Such as Giant Jesus (Cristo Rei). My biggest day so far has probably been my trip to Belém (Portuguese for Bethlehem). I knew from my guide book that it was a half hour trip from Altacara to Belém, and guessed maybe half an hour more from our hostel to Altacara. Ha! It took between one and a half and two hours to get to Belém, during which I took many photos of the Jesus. I'd headed to Belém to a) visit the Museum of Design; b) try pasteis de belém, special custard tarts; and c) check out the touristy things drawn on my map completely sans explanatory notes. Well, the Museum had closed down and was being relocated, due to open in 2009, and I couldn't locate the store Lonely PLanet recommended for the tearts. However, when I wandered into a random store, it turned out to be the right one, they just didn't display their name on the window! And I spent a gorgeous sunny afternoon exploring a crazy, lavish monastery, an enormous statue devoted to the Age of Discovery and the Tower of Belém, a defence balwark with amazingly beautiful architecture. This included a bust of a rhinoceros; apparently a rehinoceros was to be delivered to Lisbon, and the King immediately gave it to Pope Leo as a gift, even before the rhino had arrived. Big mistake; the boat sank, but the Portuguese found the rhino and stuffed it with straw, and then commemorated it in the Tower. See? Random expressions of passsion.
The final random moment of the day occurred as I amde my way back to the hostel. Lisa had texted me about a peaceful protest she'd witnessed. Walking back through town, I followed the sound of drums, thinking it might be this protest, to witness a bizarre parade of homemade costumes, asks and great music- drums, bells attached to costumes, bagpipes. When I returned to the hostel I asked the receptionist what the parade was, and she advised me it was to do with the legalisation of marijuana. Hmmm, weird costumes, it COULD be that. Later I learned that it was an Iberian mask parade, and that the marijuana parade had been the protest Lisa had witnessed. Portugal. So random. So extravagant. I just love it.
A few days ago, I knew very little about Portugal. I knew that Lisa had studied a little of the language, which is a Romance language; I knew that the Spanish and Portuguese had divided te world between them and discovered many places; and I knew Nando´s. Now I know that the spoken Portuguese is tough for many Romance language speakers, and has been described as sounding like 'a drunken Frenchman trying to speak Spanish´; that, while discovering and trading with Africa, India and South America, Portugal took on elements of their cultures, rather than purely stamping Portuguese culture onto the new colonies; and I know that the Nando's symbol is based on a common Portuguese image recalling a tale about a roast chicken which crowed three times to signify a pilgrim's innocence. And I know that there is a big statue of Jesus, a la the Big Jesus in Rio De Janeiro.
Portugal is gorgeous. Due to a dictatorship during the 20th century, it was quite chut off from the outside world, and as such is still quite underdeveloped, but trying very hard to catch up. So it still retains the laidback attitude of an older community, and much of the technology is unreliable. In fact, innefficiency is said to be a defining factor of Portuguese life, the relaxed attitude often extending into tardiness. People here are very friendly and helpful, even if you speak only very hesitant, broken Portuguese. Í've decided to learn Portuguese when I go home.
On our first evening in Lisbon, we wandered around being amazed by the cheap prices of beer. The next day we discovered we'd been in the tourist strip, and that elsewhere it was cheaper! We quickly learned that the best places for price and taste are the little hole in the wall restaurants with no English translation, and preferably a handwritten list of 'Plats de dios', today's specials. The people here generally speak no English, but show enormous concern for you as a customer. And the food! And the prices! Sigh.
We've visited quite a few castles. Lisbon itself grew down the hill from the castle, originally Moorish, and extended along the Rio Tejo (Tajus River). The castle is really nice, it's now just walls and ramparts, no explanatory signs, no lavish interior decor. Just ancient walls and an amazing view.
Yesterday we contrasted this with our visit to Sintra, a small town on the outer suburbs of Lisbon. Nestled by hills/ mountains, Sintra is overlooked by Castelos Mouros and Palacio de Pena, which was the sometime residence of Portugal's 19th century kings, and is pure flight of fantasy. The foundations of the building were a monastery, which the King extended through his own specific design, which embraces Arabic towers, Anglo castellation and Portuguese tiling, creating a true fairy tale castle. It's amazing, and quite surprising. It's the sort of thing which would not be out of place in a theme park, yet somehow fits Portugal. Eccentric expressions of passion are de rigeur here.
Such as Giant Jesus (Cristo Rei). My biggest day so far has probably been my trip to Belém (Portuguese for Bethlehem). I knew from my guide book that it was a half hour trip from Altacara to Belém, and guessed maybe half an hour more from our hostel to Altacara. Ha! It took between one and a half and two hours to get to Belém, during which I took many photos of the Jesus. I'd headed to Belém to a) visit the Museum of Design; b) try pasteis de belém, special custard tarts; and c) check out the touristy things drawn on my map completely sans explanatory notes. Well, the Museum had closed down and was being relocated, due to open in 2009, and I couldn't locate the store Lonely PLanet recommended for the tearts. However, when I wandered into a random store, it turned out to be the right one, they just didn't display their name on the window! And I spent a gorgeous sunny afternoon exploring a crazy, lavish monastery, an enormous statue devoted to the Age of Discovery and the Tower of Belém, a defence balwark with amazingly beautiful architecture. This included a bust of a rhinoceros; apparently a rehinoceros was to be delivered to Lisbon, and the King immediately gave it to Pope Leo as a gift, even before the rhino had arrived. Big mistake; the boat sank, but the Portuguese found the rhino and stuffed it with straw, and then commemorated it in the Tower. See? Random expressions of passsion.
The final random moment of the day occurred as I amde my way back to the hostel. Lisa had texted me about a peaceful protest she'd witnessed. Walking back through town, I followed the sound of drums, thinking it might be this protest, to witness a bizarre parade of homemade costumes, asks and great music- drums, bells attached to costumes, bagpipes. When I returned to the hostel I asked the receptionist what the parade was, and she advised me it was to do with the legalisation of marijuana. Hmmm, weird costumes, it COULD be that. Later I learned that it was an Iberian mask parade, and that the marijuana parade had been the protest Lisa had witnessed. Portugal. So random. So extravagant. I just love it.
Friday, May 04, 2007
Loving Lisbon
Very quick post- free Internet but it´s time restricted, of course. I´m in Lisbon, Portugal and so far I LOVE it. So glad Lisa wanted to come to Portugal, I am now very seriously considering taking Portuguese classes when I get home.
Lisbon is great- very cheap, beautiful and so relaxed. So many of the houses are covered in these beautiful tiles- itº´s a bit like wall paper for the outside, and some are painted in amazing detail. There is also heaps of really detailed paving too, I keep taking photos of the ground!
Anyway, I am sure I´ll throw up another blog or two over the next few days- must take advantage of free net! Just wanted you to know that I love Lisbon. Yes, your lives are so enhanced now...!
Lisbon is great- very cheap, beautiful and so relaxed. So many of the houses are covered in these beautiful tiles- itº´s a bit like wall paper for the outside, and some are painted in amazing detail. There is also heaps of really detailed paving too, I keep taking photos of the ground!
Anyway, I am sure I´ll throw up another blog or two over the next few days- must take advantage of free net! Just wanted you to know that I love Lisbon. Yes, your lives are so enhanced now...!
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