Catalan pride and moderniste design

How do people possibly just visit Barcelona for a day or two? We're spending five nights, and it's just not enough. Everything I see makes me want to see more, and spend more time (and money...) here. The atmosphere is lovely, very relaxed (although this might be due to the huge numbers of tourists, who, being on holiday, are generally relaxed!) and the city is so very walkable.

The thing that most people probably know about in Barcelona is Gaudi- and so they should, he is amazing. The next thing they might think of is Dali or Picasso, who both spent time painting here. It seems odd at first that an area would produce three such surrealist creators in different periods of time, but this is linked to the Catalan pride. Catalunya has long seen itself as a distinct area (since the twelfth century), and has been fiercely proud of its language, culture and sense of self. Despite numerous attempts to repress or dispel Catalunya as an autonomous area, the pride of this area means that it refuses to lie down.

Signs in Catalunya are all in Catalan (generally with a Spanish version, and often an English translation too), even though public use of Catalan has been outlawed or seriously frowned upon at three separate points in the last century. Catalonians see their language as integral to their
regional identity.

This pride in Catalonian identity also goes some way to explaining the public celebration of artists and architects such as Gaudi, as they were practicing at time when the Catlonian nationalist movements were particularly strong. It also means that public works, which in many cities may have fallen into disrepair, or have been altered, are preserved in glorious condition and proudly displayed.

Gaudi falls into a group of architects practicing 'moderniste' design, known elsewhere as Art Nouveau. Gaudi embraces many of the ideals of Art Nouveau: that all items should be of use to humanity (meaning that design principles are enhanced to make items and places more people friendly); that functional items should still be beautiful; and beautification which has is primarily inspired by the natural world. Gaudi's work includes a lot of colour, and often ¡curved, organic lines which make some of his works appear very odd form the outside, but inside create a sinuous, comforting space.

I have fallen utterly in love with Gaudi's work. It is almost fairy-tale: the Casa Battlo reminds me of a witch's house with it's unusual colours, crooked roof and balustrades reminiscent of bones. But having visited the inside of La Pedrera and seen the result of his design, I can see how his ideas make so much sense, and create a beautiful living space. Gaudi focuses strongly on light and a feeling of space, created through large doorways between rooms fitted with sliding doors which are designed to remain open most of the time, light wells strategically positioned in apartment blocks, and curving walls which trick the eye and encourage non-traditional arrangement of room fittings.

Other than this, I've checked out other moderniste buildings (also beautiful, although not as strikingly original as Gaudi's work), wandered the Gothic Quarter and the ports, learned about Catlunyan history, visited fabulous markets and watched a very passionate protest. I still want to visit Picasso and Dali artworks, a museum of sacred art, more of Gaudi's works (Sagrada Familia, Palau Gruell, Parc Gruell), visit Montjuic Parc and Parc Cituidade and a whole lot more. I can guarantee I won't get to it all. Which means I can guarantee I'll be back in Barcelona at some time.

I think what I like about Barcelona is similar to what I like about Lisbon- it seems to embrace difference rather than stamp it out. Spanish conquest generally seems to be about exploiting a country and enforcing a Spanish culture onto it- almost a 'We Woz Ere' sign. Barcelona has certainly profited from the American colonies, and had it's share of conquest attempts of neighbouring regions. But due to its economic and industrial success, it has also seen many emigrants arrive. These emigrants often find themselves swept up in Catalunyan culture, and campaigning for a Catalunyan autonomy as strongly as Catlunyan natives.

I'm finding myself swept up in Catalunyan culture already- last night I dreamed about Gaudi. In fact, I dreamed I was performing music on a cardboard tube as a didgeridoo. It was a basis for a thesis I wanted to write comparing my work to Gaudi's, and arguing that beauty and creativity from unusual sources should be celebrated. After all, a teacher of Gaudi's commented at the time of his graduation that he didn't know whether Gaudi was a genius or a madman. While time may have proven his work extraordinary, somehow I don't think the cardboard didgeridoo will take off...

Spain- saints, sangria and sleepless nights

It has been said that all roads in Spain lead to Madrid, which I'd believe; Madrid feels quite similar to many other large cities, gritty, busy, and filled with crazy crazy drivers on lots of large roads. It seems very modern architecturally, compared with a lot of places I've been which have retained their tradition and charm. Madrid feels to be mostly a functional city, not beautiful, but there are a lot of fascinating and pretty places to be discovered. Read Lisa's blog for more about that though, as she did far more organised sightseeing than I, and I'm certain she'll write about what she has learned of Madrid's history, art and architecture.

For me, the most exciting prospect of Madrid was May 15, San Isidro's Day. Saint Isidore is the patron saint of Madrid, and I was thrilled at the prospect of witnessing a Saint's festival! Perhaps years of studying religious celebrations had built it all up a little in my mind, but it was quite a fun day. For festival days, Spanish often don traditional dress, which is so cute to see. This was particularly prevalent in children and older couples, but plenty of younger adults were getting into the spirit too. San Isidro's Day seemed to have two separate camps- the religious celebrations centered around the San Isidro Cathedral, and the fiesta, essentially a very large street party, centered around San Isidro's church and meadow. I spent a fair bit of time at the fiesta, soaking up the atmosphere, taking photos of the fantastic dresses and eating rosquillas, traditional donut/ biscuit like pastries.

I also managed a day trip out to Toledo, in Castille- La Mancha (the regional setting of Don Quixote) despite the universe's best effort's to prevent me. I bought a ticket, but missed the train- in Spanish train stations EVERYTHING goes through x-ray machines, and you must board the train a certain time before it leaves (as opposed to say, Portugal, where the train stops briefly and you just jump on). So I could see my train, but not get on it. Then I needed to change my ticket to the next train two hours later, but the line was long and slow, so I decided to come back closer to the time. Only I lost my ticket! Grappled with whether or not I should buy ANOTHER ticket to Toledo, and eventually did, which I am glad of.

Toledo is a medieval walled city in beautiful, classic Spanish landscape (but not windmills in sight), and was the capital of the Visigoth region. Since then it has retained its Visigoth architecture, as well as gained Roman elements, and boasts ancient examples of the three main religions living harmoniously in the one city, with beautiful old synagogues, mosques and cathedrals and monasteries. I loved the cathedral, which was pure Spanish Gothic (unusual, as often Gothic cathedrals have elements of Rennaisance, which has less of a 'wedding cake' effect... but anyway, that detail's just for nerds like me). Fantastic cloisters with orange groves and birds were a highlight, as often cloisters are disused are bare nowadays. The cathedral in Madrid was also amazing, combining Gothic architecture with 20th century decoration and stained glass.

Once back in Madrid, I spent yet more time at the station, waiting over an hour to reserve a seat on the train to Madrid. Ugh. Lisa declares Spanish beuracracy to be slower than French, and the Madrilenians ruder than Parisians. At least beautiful details in Madrid make the waiting more tolerable- Atocha train station is probably the most beautiful transit area I have ever seen. It is in a semi hothouse, and uses the space to house a huge garden of tropical plants, right in the middle of the station! Best of all were the turtles, at least 50 of them, which poke their heads up between water plants and sun themselves on rocks.

Spain stays up late, not lunching until 2pm, and thus not dining until after 9pm. Maybe this is one of the reasons sleep seemed hard to come by. We caught the night train, on which we shared a coach with a buy who was tripping out on something... fun stuff. Then some Sydney number rang my phone at 3am Madrid time the next night (and the following, but I had the phone on silent). Then the next night a drunken chick who'd locked herself out of her room was bashing on doors demanding to be let it- it seeme4d she'd not only forgotten her key, but which room she was in too.

But wait, it wasn't all terrible. I haven't mentioned the best part about Madrid- Spanish chocolate is great! I had chocolate caliente (hot chocolate) and churros three times in two days. How can I stay angry at a city with amazing chocolate? They must be doing something right! Now we're in Barcelona, which has a much cruisier atmosphere, beautifully planned cityscapes, and much smilier waiters. Many people have told me that, despite being robbed here (on multiple occasions for some), Barcelona is their favourite city in the world. I hold high hopes :)